Logo Angrita Trek & Expedition.

 

(Run by Ang Rita Sherpa, ten times Everest Summit)
Lazimpat, P.O. Box :8544, Kathmandu Nepal
Tel : 977 1 438163, Fax : 977 1 436167
http://www.climbing-nepal.com
http://www
.angritatrek.com
Email : art@wlink.com.np

Island Peak (6,189m)

This is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is seen as an island in a sea of ice. The summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak. The extension of this ridge descending south-west is the part of the normal route of ascent and leads to the South Summit. Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add more charm in climbing Island Peak.

South East Flank & South-West Ridge

Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. Proper care should be taken to avoid the possible avalanche in the event of heavy snow fall.

From the base camp, a well acclimatized party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer alpine style camping at high camp which adds the joy of climbing and helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts south east around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on at 5, 280m.

From the high camp, the left hand ridge scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing.

Itinerary

Day 01: Khamandu - Lukla by flight. Trek to Phakding.
Day 02: Namche Bazaar.
Day 03: Rest at Namche Bazar for acclimatization.
Day 04: Khumjung
Day 05: Dole.
Day 06: Machermo.
Day 07: Gokyo - Gokyo Ri - Na.
Day 08: Phortse.
Day 09: Pangboche.
Day 10: Chhukhung.
Day 11: Island Peak Base Camp.
Day 12: Rest at Base Camp
Day 13: High Camp.
Day 14: Summit - Chhukhung
Day 15: Dingboche.
Day 16: Tengboche.
Day 17: Namche Bazaar.
Day 18: Lukla
Day 19: Lukla - Kathamandu by flight.

 

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