This is the
most popular trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is seen as an island in a
sea of ice. The summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated west face
rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the
summit of Island Peak. The extension of this ridge descending south-west is the part of
the normal route of ascent and leads to the South Summit. Imja Tse not only provides an
enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the
Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m),
Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The
views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add more charm in
climbing Island Peak.
South East Flank
& South-West Ridge
Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya
Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. Proper care
should be taken to avoid the possible avalanche in the event of heavy snow fall.
From the base camp, a well acclimatized party
in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most
of the climbers prefer alpine style camping at high camp which adds the joy of climbing
and helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts south east around and base of
Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open
gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on at 5, 280m.
From the high camp, the left hand ridge
scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice ramp
leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a
little difficult due to steep climbing.
||Khamandu - Lukla by flight.
Trek to Phakding.
||Rest at Namche Bazar for
||Gokyo - Gokyo Ri - Na.
||Island Peak Base Camp.
||Rest at Base Camp
||Summit - Chhukhung
||Lukla - Kathamandu by flight.