Nepal is a country well known for its Himalaya mountains. Among the 10 highest peaks in the world, eight, including the highest peak Mt. Everest, crown this country. Nothing on earth can beat the exhilaration of scaling them. No wonder Nepal is the favorite destination for mountaineers, and every year more than 600 expeditions trudge up the Himalaya, including the trekking peaks.
There are four mountaineering seasons: spring (March-May), summer (June-August), autumn (September-November) and winter (December-February). A total of 153 Himalayan peaks are open to mountaineers. Climbing permits are issued by the Ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation (MoCTCA) for 135 peaks known as mountaineering peaks, and by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) for 18 smaller peaks, known as trekking peaks, which range from 5,587 to 6,654 m in altitude.
The following documents have to be sent to MoCTCA, Mountaineering Division when applying for a climbing permit: completed application, endorsement of the National Alpine Club, short biographies of all the members of the expedition (with photograph and signature), map and/or photograph of the mountain indicating climbing route and approach route map. Enlistment of the expeditions name does not require any fee, and it should not be paid before receiving the permit from the Ministry of Tourism.
Permits to climb the 18 trekking peaks are issued by NMA on first come first served" basis. It is necessary to appoint a government recognized trekking agency of Nepal as a local liaison for the expedition in Kathmandu. The trekking agency will look after all the requirements during the expedition.
A royalty (climbing fee) ranging from US$ 1,500 to US$ 10,000 (depending on the altitude of the peak) and US$ 50,000 for Everest is charged by MoCTCA for a group of seven persons. An additional US$ 20,000 is charged for the normal south east ridge route on Everest. An additional US$ 200 to US$ 1,500 per person (US$ 10,000 per person for Everest) will be charged if the group exceeds seven persons. The full amount of the royalty has to be paid within two months of the date of issue of the permit, otherwise it may be canceled. The royalty must be paid directly to MoCTCA by bank draft or bank transfer in convertible foreign currency only.
For trekking peaks, a royalty of US$ 300 or US$ 150 is charged by NMA. The permit is valid for a period of one month for a group of up to 10 persons. An additional amount of US$ 7.50 per person is charged if the group exceeds 10 persons.
A rebate of up to 40% on the royalty may be given during the summer and winter seasons. Full or partial rebate for a fixed period may be given for new peaks or for unclimbed open peaks, on first come first served" basis.
Food and equipment imported for expeditions require an import license and should be custom cleared. Walkie-talkies, transceiver sets and other communication equipment are controlled items in Nepal and have to be declared at the customs office at the entry point.
For further information, contact Ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation, Tourism Industry Administration, Mountaineering Division, Bhrikuti Mandap, Kathmandu; Tel: 256234.
Nepal Mountaineering Association, Naxal, Kathmandu; Tel: 434525, 435442; Fax: 977-1-434578; E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
MD Publishing Co.
Tripureswor, P. O. Box 3525, Kathmandu, Nepal.
Tel: 260327, 256003 . Telex: 2611 EMC NP. Fax: 977-1-261159.
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Last Updated: 24 July, 2000
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