(Run by Ang Rita Sherpa, ten times Everest Summit)
Lazimpat, P.O. Box :8544, Kathmandu Nepal
Tel : 977 1 438163, Fax : 977 1 436167
http://www.climbing-nepal.com
http://www.angritatrek.com
Email : art@wlink.com.np

Mera peak is considered one of the major and popular trekking peaks in Nepal. The Peak itself rises to the south of Everest. The ascent of the peak is technically straightforward, however, the heavy snow and the maze of crevasses can make the way longer to the summit. Besides the charming of climbing Mera Peak, the trek to its base camp from Lukla is rewarding for experiencing little-visited and yet unspoilt region of Nepal with densely forested hill sides.

There are several approaches to the base camp besides the easy and normal route which is mentioned below. The routes crossing Amphu Labtsa (5,780m) and the Mingbo La (5,871m) are quite adventurous and rewarding for spectacular scenery but none of them are easy.

North Face Glacier from the Mera La

The base camp can be set up at 5,300m on the Hongu side in the moraine below the ice. Normally, high camp is set at 5,800m near a rocky outcrop on the Mera Glacier. The high camp proves to be one to the spectacular viewpoints in Nepal offering the panoramic views of Kanchanjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse sweeping around from the east and Amadablam, Cho Oyu and Kangtega to the west. The giant faces of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse appear in the north.

There are three main summits which are climbable without much difficulty. The south summit (6,065m) is the most accessible with the Northern Summit (6,476m) , the highest, which can be reached by skirting the Central Summit (6,461m) to the north and following snow ridge to its top. Climbing the middle summit requires ascent up on steep snow and is slightly technical. Mera North is straight-forward to climb.

Itinerary