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Naya Kanga
Peak Langtang region
is a popular destination for climbing snow peaks and spectacular panoramic views of
mountains in Nepal and Tibet. Easy access to the region and availability of several snow
peaks scattered around for acclimatization make this region an ideal destination for
novice as well as experienced climbers.
Naya Kanga is an attractive peak rising to
the west of the Ganja La (5,122m) . Ascending to Ganja La or the summit of Naya Kanga
offers the spectacular panoramic views of mountains in Nepal and Tibet including Langshisa
Ri (6,370m), Pemthang Ri (6,836m), Shisapangma (8,046m), Langtang Lirung (7,425m),
Pemthang Kapro Ri (6,830m) and Langtang II (6,571m).
The normal route of ascent to Naya Kanga is
via the north - east ridge over a line on ice and snow. We follow the route of Langtang
trek to Kyangjin (3,749m) for the ascent of Naya Kanga. To the north above Kangjin, there
are several hills that provide both the magnificent views and the acclimatization. North -
east of Kyangjin Ri (4,700m), there are two peaks; Yala Peak (5, 500m) and Tsergo Peak
(5,749m) that provide good climbing for acclimatization but require no permit.
North - East Face & North Ridge
Crossing the Langtang Khola below Kyangjin,
we climb steeply along the ridge through a forest of rhododendron and juniper. Finally
climbing more gently, we arrive at yak pastures of Ngegang at about 4000m. We continue
following the trail to Ganja La through moraine climbing steeply. We leave Ganja La trail
to climb steeply up yet more moraine to reach the eastern end of the glacier shelf beneath
the north - east face of Naya Kanga. We set up the high camp here for the ascent.
We cross the glacier shelf to the foot of a
shallow couloir heading to the north ridge. We climb the couloir to the notch and the base
of the ridge . Then we turn to the ice nose on the left which is only the technical
section on the climb. Now the ridge widens and leads to a small col. on the east - west
summit ridge and the summit is only 30m higher to the right. The climb near the summit
should be done carefully. Normally, the ascent takes 5 - 7 hours from the high camp. For
the return trek, we may follow Ganja La - Helambu route or take the same route back to
Dhunche.
Itinerary
Day 01: |
Kathmandu - Syabru by land
transportation. |
Day 02: |
Ghoratabela |
Day 03: |
Langtang. |
Day 04: |
Kyangjin Gompa |
Day 05: |
Rest at Kyangjin. |
Day 06: |
High camp at Yala Chhu. |
Day 07: |
Yala peak summit - Kyangjin. |
Day 08: |
Base Camp. |
Day 09: |
High Camp. |
Day 10: |
Summit - Base Camp. |
Day 11: |
Kyangjin. |
Day 12: |
Ghoratabela. |
Day 13: |
Syabru. |
Day 14: |
Syabru - Kathmandu by land
transportation. |
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